While living in Baku in the summer of 2018, I had to leave the country a couple of times
to renew my tourist visa. Wanting to take the opportunity to venture into the Caucasus,
I chose neighbouring Georgia, reached the first time by land and the second time by air.
I explored this amazing, thousand-year-old borderland by train, taxi, maršhrutke,
from Tbilisi and Mtskheta to David Gareja on the border with Azerbaijan.
Every day at 11 o’clock, the only private company that takes visitors to David Gareja, the ‘Gareji Line’, leaves from Freedom Square. I had spotted the vehicle through forums on Facebook and
The itinerary was supposed to start from Tbilisi, I would have rented a car, perhaps one of those rickety jeeps that the online catalogues of local rental cars proudly offered at bargain
We were looking for someone, Elena and I, that morning as soon as we got off in the chaotic Tbilisi train station. Suddenly Levani appeared. His surname ended in ‘-shvili’, and he
The first time I went to Georgia was in June 2018… It was a cool spring evening in Baku. We could still dine with the window open in the city, before the